MID
YEAR BODY REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION
Body
Removal Checklist
1. Battery - Disconnect
only
2. Steering Column
- Disconnect and remove
3. Master Cylinder
- Disconnect lines only
4. Clutch Rod pedal
- Disconnect wire clip only
5. Back up light plug
- Disconnect only
6. Acceleration rod
and ground straps - Disconnect only
7. Oil pressure line,
big and small block - Disconnect only
8. Engine Wires:
- Temperature sending
unit - Disconnect only
- Coil wires + and
- - Disconnect only
- Brake warning wire,
1967 only - Disconnect only
- Alternator wires
- Disconnect only
9. Distributor Tachometer
Drive Unit - Disconnect only
10. A-Frame dust covers
- Remove from under A-arm
11. Hood - Remove
from car
12. Shifter ball and
T-Handle - Remove
13. Side pipe covers
or rocker moldings - Remove
14. Front bumpers
and braces - Remove
15. Starter wires
- Disconnect and remove
16. Splash shields,
large and small - Remove
17. License plate
trim - Remove
18. Rear exhaust panel
- Remove
19. Gas tank sending
unit wires - Disconnect and remove
20. Antenna and ground
strap - Disconnect and remove
21. Seat belt anchors,
left, right and center - Disconnect and remove
22. Emergency brake
cable - Disconnect
23. Body mount, rear
access door covers - Remove
24. Ground strap,
left front body mount - Remove
25. Radiator core
support bolts, lower only - Remove
26. All body mounts
- Remove
- '63-'64 coupe -
10 bolts
- '63-'64 roadster
- 12 bolts
- '65-'67 coupe -
8 bolts
- '65-'67 roadster
- 10 bolts
Battery
Disconnect battery
cables at battery location
Steering Column
at Gear Sector
Before removing the
flexible or pot joint coupling, the mast jacket must be lowered
and pulled rearward far enough to permit coupling removal. Do
not allow the steering column to hang down from the dash panel
or distortion to the column will result. When the instrument panel
mounting bracket is removed, be sure to support the column. Remove
the bolt from the coupling clamp. This is a special bolt and will
require a 12-point socket or box wrench. Tap the coupling with
a soft hammer to remove it from the wormshaft. The coupling is
spliced to the wormshaft.
Master Cylinder
- Lines Only
Wipe master cylinder
and lines clean with a cloth. Place dry cloths below cylinder
area to absorb any fluid spillage. Disconnect hydraulic lines
at cylinder. Cover line ends with clean, lint-free cloth to prevent
foreign matter from entering system.
Clutch Rod Wire
Clip
Clutch rod wire clip
is located directly below the master cylinder where clutch pedal
rod intersects with clutch cross shaft. Remove by inserting screwdriver.
Back-up Light Plug
Back-up light plug
is located behind the distributor. Caution should be taken during
the removal process as wires could be pulled from their sockets.
Remove by pulling connector apart.
Accelerator Rod
and Ground Strap
Disconnect accelerator
rod at carburetor throttle lever by removing throttle spring of
cotter pin. Remove ground strap by removing hex head bolt located
on the main accelerator base lever near firewall.
Oil Pressure Line
Removal - Small and Big Block
Small block removal:
Oil pressure line
is located to the right rear of the distributor, looking toward
the front of the car. Remove by using a 7/16" open-end wrench.
Care should be taken to avoid bending the copper line.
Big block removal:
Oil pressure line
is located on the driver's side near the oil filter. Removal is
same as for small block.
Top Engine Wires
- Including Temperature Sending Unit
The following wires
are located on the top half of engine or there by. Removal should
be as follows:
A. Coil wires at coil,
+ and -, remove 1/4" nuts
B. Water sending unit,
unplug connector
C. Alternator wires,
remove 7/16" nut, unplug connector
Coil Wires - Positive
and Negative
Coil wire removal
is same as above.
Brake Warning Wire
at Proportioning Valve - '67 Only
Brake warning wire
is located under proportioning valve below master cylinder. Remove
by pulling plug downward.
Alternator Wires
Alternator wire removal
same as above.
A-Frame Dust Covers
Tucked in Upper A-Arms
Remove A-frame dust
covers by pulling up and out of A-arms.
Air Cleaner on
Fuel Injection
Remove large 4-inch
clamp attaching air cleaner to injection unit. Remove the four
metal screws attaching the (S) tube or metal duct from the radiator
support. Remove screws that attach the air cleaner body to the
inner fender well, these screws bolt through the fender well and
are accessible in the left wheel well opening.
Hood, Radiator
and Shroud
A. Hood - Removal
of hood should be at hood latches located toward the front of
the car. Remove bolts, which are located on the hood itself. After
removal, complete latch assembly should still be attached to the
inner fender wheel skirt.
B. Radiator - Remove
radiator inlet and outlet hoses at radiator. Remove transmission
cooler lines, if so equipped. Remove shroud to radiator support
screws. Rest shroud on engine fan. Remove radiator upper support
bracket screws and carefully lift radiator from vehicle. If equipped
with air conditioning: Remove the bolts holding the receiver dehydrator
bottle and let it rest in place. Back out the left front hinge
to body bolt. Remove radiator upper support bolts (2 each side)
and loosen the lower bolts (1 each side) tilt the radiator support
rearward and carefully remove the radiator.
Shifter Ball and
T-Handle
Unscrew shifter ball
counter clockwise from shifter rod. Once shifter ball is removed,
lift T-handle from shifter rod. Be careful not to lose shifter
ball and spring and T-handle nylon washers.
Sidepipe Covers
or Rocker Moldings
A. Sidepipe Covers
- Remove 2 phillips head screws and speed nuts fore and aft of
rocker moldings. Molding can now be removed by lifting it off
its retainer. The sidepipe shield is attached with phillips head
screws which can be removed at this time. The shield is also attached
inside each front fender well and just ahead of the rear fender
well. Removal of these screws will now allow the shield to be
fully removed. The sidepipe muffler need not be removed.
B. Rocker Moldings
- Remove 2 phillips head screws and speed nuts fore and aft of
rocker molding. Remove attaching screws on the bottom of the molding.
Lift the molding out at the bottom and up off the retainer.
Front Bumpers and
Braces
Bumpers may be removed,
including braces, as a complete assembly.
A. Remove bolts and
washers connecting lower braces (2) to frame.
B. Remove bolts and
washers connecting small braces located in fender well (1 each
side).
C. Remove bolts and
washers connecting main support braces to frame rails (1 each
side).
D. Remove complete
bumper assembly by pulling forward until remaining braces are
clear from body.
Starter Wires at
Starter
There are three wires
connected at the starter. Location of these is directly connected
to the solenoid. These wires are held in place by a 9/16"
nut and 5/16" nut. Removal of these nuts will allow wires
to hang free. There is one additional wire connected at the base
of the starter (ground). By removing the outboard starter support
bolt, this wire will hang free.
Splash Shields
- Large and Small
Splash Shield - Large:
These under body splash shields are located under the driver's
and passenger side foot wells. There are a total of five screws
which hold these items in place. Removal of these screws will
allow splash shields to be removed.
Splash Shield - Small:
These body splash shields are located directly below each fender
vent. They are attached by four bolts. Two bolts are located outside
the front fender wells. The other two are located under the fender
vent body panel itself. Removal of these bolts will allow shield
removal.
License Plate Trim
License plate trim
consists of four screws plus two screws holding the license plate.
Remove license plate first. Remove license plate trim by removing
two screws located at upper most top and two screws located at
either side of trim plate, lower half.
Emergency Brake
Cable Disconnect
A. Emergency brake
cable on '63-'66 Corvettes disconnects at the pivot assembly under
the car at the transmission crossmember. This assembly is located
on the driver's side of the vehicle. Removal of the adjusting
nuts allows the cable to be disconnected.
B. Emergency brake
cable on '67 Corvettes disconnect at the "Y" intersection
under the car at the rear crossmember. Also remove the spring
connecting the cable end to the frame. Remove white pulley just
rear of the transmission crossmember to allow the cable to be
free.
BODY DROP
Before attempting
a body drop of a completed Corvette, there are a few areas of
caution to consider.
Depending on which
method you elect to choose, be sure to take time to instruct each
helper. Explain in detail exactly what they are to do and not
do.
Do not lift at nose
area or wear jewelery, take all metal objects out of pockets and
remove belt buckles. You may also want to furnish each helper
with an inexpensive pair of gloves. Also, point out each body
to frame mounting area and their general purpose in relation to
function.
Just before the actual
body drop, it's a good idea to apply masking tape to the body
above each body mounting area. This gives the helpers a visual
reference mark in relation to the frame mounting areas.
You, as the owner,
should double-check each frame-to-body mount area to assure yourself
you've placed each shim/shims and body cushions in their proper
location. Once you're positive everything is correct, place masking
tape over each mounting area (as did the factory) to hold shims
and cushions in place.
Be sure to have one
of your helpers stand at the rear as the body is being lowered.
This person will be watching to see that both rear quarter panels
don't hang-up on the frame. If panels do touch, fiberglass and
paint damage could result.
Have another helper
stand at the nose looking down inside the engine compartment area.
As the body is lowered, the inner fender wells come very close
to the front frame rails. The helper may have to push outward
for these to clear the frame. Reattachment and bolting are to
be accomplished in reverse of section 4.
Don't hurry and double-check
everything.
1. What To Do First
A. After body is removed,
photograph every part of chassis and components
B. Clean with mild
soap and water to remove dirt, grime, etc. to inspect each individual
part for condition, type of finish and for codes, which may still
exist
C. Check for shim
locations and amount
2. Tools and Items
Needed
A. Jack stands
B. Engine hoist
C. Engine stand
D. Assortment of wrenches
and ratchet set
E. Spring compressor
F. Wire brush
G. Bench grinder with
wire wheel
H. Floor jack
I. Scotch pads
J. Spray gun
K. Dip bucket
3. Disassembly
Assuming the body
has been removed, the procedure is:
A. Remove engine,
transmission and driveshaft
B. Remove all exhaust
C. Remove gas tank
D. Remove steering
box and complete tie rod assembly
E. Remove all brake
hoses, brake lines and fuel lines
F. Remove four shocks
G. Remove front spindles
H. Remove upper and
lower control arms, and coil springs will drop out
I. Remove front sway
bar
J. Remove rear leaf
spring
K. Remove rear struts
on both sides of rear differential carrier
L. Remove rear spindles
on both sides
M. Remove complete
rear end housing
Your stripped chassis
is now ready to be cleaned for restoration!
4. Replace vs.
Restore
Engine, transmission
and rear differential should remain original. If these items are
in poor working condition, they should be rebuilt to Factory Specs
rather than be replaced because then the vehicle will not be 100
percent authentic and this will decrease its value. If the car
you are restoring has a good driving history with no engine and
drive train problems, they should just be cleaned internally and
externally. Any part with a date code, such as the alternator,
exhaust manifolds, radiator, etc., should be rebuilt only if necessary
and cleaned to make it look assembly line fresh. Parts without
a date code that wear out and cannot be rebuilt should be replaced
if the replacement part is exactly like the original.
5. The list below
consists of miscellaneous cleaners needed to clean and freshen
up almost any part to its original condition without replating
are:
A. Mild dish detergent
soaps used with water
B. Paint strippers
C. Lacquer thinner
D. Naval jelly to
remove rust
E. Scotch pads
F. SOS or Brillo soap
pads
It should be noted
that caution be exercised so you do not harm or destroy the original
finish.
6. Codes to Look
For
There can be two identical
vehicles built the same day and the codes on various components
may or may not be the same. The codes listed below are common
ones and may or may not be found on your Corvette.
A. White stenciled
part number of frame and date when frame was produced by A.O.
Smith Company in Michigan. (All Corvette frames will have these
numbers located on right frame rail.)
B. Yellow dabs of
paint on tie rod ends and steering link
C. Stenciled yellow
part number on the drive shaft
D. Slashes of crayon
marks on frame rails to indicate number of shims (color of slashes
may vary)
E. Paint mark on drive
shaft and rear end flange to be lined up during assembly (color
of marks could be yellow or ?)
7. Assembly
There is no right
or wrong way to assemble the chassis of your Corvette. The procedure
mentioned here is simple and easy to follow.
A. Chassis is now
on four jackstands ready for assembly
B. Install front upper
and lower control arms
C. Install front springs
and connect upper and lower ball joints
D. Install front sway
bar, bushings and links
E. Connect all tie
rods
F. Install steering
box and connect pitman arm to steering linkage
Now go to rear of
chassis
G. Install both trailing
arms
H. Install rear end
and attach to chassis
I. Install rear axle
hubs and axle half shafts on both sides
J. Install rear crossmember
K. Install leaf spring
into rear of chassis and connect to spring links
L. Install metal fuel
support and install gas tank
M. Install all four
calipers, brake pads, four wheels and drop chassis onto floor
N. Install all brake
lines with proper clips to each wheel
O. Connect emergency
brake cable to center of chassis mounting pulley
P. Install completed
and painted engine to proper mounts, minus the carburetor
Q. Install transmission
complete with clutch assembly if any
R. Connect drive shaft
from transmission complete to rear end (of course, U-joints are
already installed onto drive shaft)
S. Connect fuel line
from fuel pump to gas tank and connect fuel vent line if there
is one
T. Install exhaust
manifolds to exhaust pipes and follow through to complete exhaust
system and connect as necessary
U. Now is the time
to place shims in their proper place and masking tape 1-1/2"
in width to hold shims in place
Your completed chassis
is now ready once again to mate with the restored body!
